Chanel Launches 'Coco Crush 2026' with a Polo Twist
- 13 hours ago
- 4 min read
The French fashion house Chanel recently unveiled its Coco Crush 2026 jewellery collection at the legendary Chateau Marmont, the historic backdrop for Hollywood’s most prestigious gatherings. During the event, brand ambassadors — including singer Lily Allen, Gracie Abrams (daughter of the Star Trek director), and rising Heated Rivalry star Connor Storrie — reflected on a legacy spanning over a century. The collection traces its origins back to France and one man’s profound passion for the equestrian world.
The Coco Crush Collection
The Coco Crush line is an iconic fine jewellery range inspired by the matelassé (quilted) motif, a signature emblem of the Maison since 1955. This sophisticated collection features rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings crafted in beige, yellow, or white gold, available with or without diamond embellishments.
At the heart of Coco Crush is the distinctive quilted pattern. This design evokes the horse blankets and jackets Gabrielle Chanel adopted from the equestrian circles of her polo-playing lovers, such as Étienne Balsan and Arthur "Boy" Capel.
Étienne Balsan: The Polo Player Who Changed History
In the late 19th century, Étienne Balsan (1878–1953) was sent from France to an English boarding school. He was the son of a wealthy textile industrialist whose fabrics supplied the French and British armies during the Boer War. Although Balsan became an officer in a light cavalry regiment, he eventually resigned to distance himself from the family business. Instead, he dedicated his life to breeding horses and competing in polo matches at the Château de Royallieu, located near Compiègne in northern France. Tragically, this ivy-covered estate was later seized by the Nazis during the Second World War as an internment camp before its eventual destruction.
Balsan was far more than a mere enthusiast; he was a pivotal figure in professionalising and promoting polo in France during the early 20th century. In 1892, he co-founded the prestigious Polo de Paris in the Bois de Boulogne. Olympic records show he competed for the Compiègne Polo Club team during the Paris 1900 Olympic Games, where polo was an official sport. He specialised in breeding polo ponies, selecting the fast, agile specimens that would define the standard of the game in France.
While Balsan is often remembered today as a socialite and one of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel’s (1883–1971) lovers, the two remained close friends until his death.
The Encounter with Coco
Balsan introduced Chanel to the world of horses and to several key romantic partners, including Arthur "Boy" Capel — another polo player and her future benefactor. Reflecting on her time at Royallieu, Chanel remarked, "The only happy moments were those I spent on horseback, in the forest. I learned to ride because, until then, I hadn't the slightest idea how to do it."
During this formative period, Chanel began wearing tailored tweeds, breeches, and riding jackets traditionally reserved for men. This was a deliberate and stark contrast to the women in her social circle, who wore restrictive gowns and polka-dot veils.
Arthur "Boy" Capel: Love and Investment
Mr Capel, an English aristocrat and polo player, was not only the great love of Chanel’s life but also her first investor. The aesthetics of polo and Capel’s own sporting attire directly influenced her creations. She adapted elements of his wardrobe — such as jerseys, riding trousers, and tweed jackets — transforming them into symbols of modern elegance and feminine liberation.
The influence of Balsan and Capel served as the equestrian pillar of the brand. Without their horses and the polo circuit, the sporty aesthetic and the famous matelassé motif might never have existed.
The Birth of an Empire
The Chanel brand was officially established in 1909, initially focusing solely on millinery. Within a decade, having expanded into women’s fashion, the enigmatic founder was already challenging social norms. Her avant-garde designs rejected the 20th-century corset culture in favour of garments that prioritised comfort and functionality.
In 1929, Coco introduced shoulder-strap bags to free women’s hands from clutches. While this concept seems obvious to the multifaceted, busy women of 2026, it was a wonderfully radical innovation at the time.
The Haute Joaillerie Sport Collection
Chanel’s high jewellery collection that most directly references the polo world and the designer's sporting spirit is the Haute Joaillerie Sport line. While the inspiration stems from Chanel’s early encounters with Parisian polo players, the collection is a broader tribute to an active lifestyle—a testament to the sporting aesthetic that Coco Chanel revolutionised in the 1920s and 30s. The designs include motifs inspired by athletic equipment, such as carabiner clasps, racing stripes, and the iconic number 5. It is a celebration of movement and elegance, rooted in the very same world of horses and sport that gave birth to the House's signature quilted motif.
